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Hi y’all! It’s another installment of our weekly roundup of food and wine news we think is worth your time. Each week we read, listen, and watch podcasts, books, essays, movies and more. Then we share the stories we find most interesting with you. Think we missed something special? Want to fan-girl and boy with us? Let us know in the comments!
You would think that a chef who has held a three Michelin stars for ten years would be a household name. Not so with Chef Chan Yan-tak of Hong Kong’s Lung King Heen.
Read his story on Time.
Chef Mike Costello preserves and revives traditional foods during his Lost Farms Dinners. His dinners may bring up memories of shame and lack but always transforms them into moments of pride in the resilience of the people of the Appalachians.
Read all about it on Bitter Southerner.
There is more to California wine than Napa and Sonoma. Find out about the underappreciated wines of Mendocino County.
Read all about it on San Francisco Chronicle
Recently, Dolester Miles won “Best Pastry Chef” from the James Beard Foundation. Chef and food writer Therese Nelson was inspired by her to dig into the history of baking in the South and the US. African-American chefs and cooks shaped the traditional foods of this country, yet we don’t know their names or even acknowledge their contributions.
Read about some of these little recognized but hugely influential chefs on The Taste.
I first noticed this when a vegan Mexican restaurant opened up here in my working-class neighborhood in Dallas. It’s now happening all over the country.
Find out what is driving this trend on NPR’s The Salt
Journalists, writers, food professionals, and food lovers from across the country are mourning the loss of one of the most influential food critics in the nation.
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There are two schools of thought when it comes to macaroni and cheese. The first school believes that creaminess is king. The other thinks that the real king is a crisp topping. I am Switzerland. There is no bad macaroni and cheese. Every iteration brings new delights and its own set of charms. Macaroni and cheese is so pervasive in US culture that most people don’t remember the first time they ate it. We assume that every child in America adores it and that their mac and cheese of choice comes in a navy blue box. This was not the case for me. My mother made baked macaroni and cheese for me when I was little. Mostly this was because we moved around a great deal, and not every place we lived had Kraft Mac & Cheese available. I was probably seven years old before I discovered the wonders of nuclear yellow powdered cheese and thin pasta tubes.
I was visiting family in Texas for the summer. School was out, and it was time to come to the US and see Grandma and Grandpa. My grandmother was an excellent cook, but she, like every other American woman, knew that children adore mac and cheese. So one night for dinner, we had the most ubiquitous of American meals: Mac and cheese, chicken fingers, peas and carrots, and ketchup. I was in love. So much so that when we got back home to Honduras, I wanted nothing but bright orange-yellow mac and cheese.
We were fortunate enough at the time to have help at home. My mother and father both worked full time and living in Central America afforded us the luxury of Lila. Our amazing cook. I was always under Lila’s feet. Watching what she was making, asking her questions, and offering to “help.” So when my mac and cheese addiction came into full bloom, I begged her to make my sister and me some for lunch. She agreed and whipped up a batch of her macaroni and cheese. The one she always made for me. Ever helpful, I mentioned that it was the wrong color. “Can you make it more yellow?” I asked. She thought for a moment and got the food coloring. She added a few drops and stirred it in. “Asi?” she asks… “like this?” “Noooooo” I reply. “More yellow, it should be brighter” she adds more, looking worried, but willing to try. “Asi?” she asked again. “No! Brighter!” I demanded. Poor Lila continued trying until she couldn’t take it anymore. “No mas, ya es bastante! No more, that’s enough!” Bratty seven-year-old that I was, I pouted. This mac and cheese was totally wrong. She had used the wrong noodles, and it was entirely the wrong color. UGH. (Lord, I was an entitled little brat.)
This disappointment in the color and quality of my mac and cheese was short lived. First, it was delicious, and second, I adored Lila, so pouting about her food and making her feel bad wasn’t exactly my favorite activity. She continued to make that mac and cheese for me as long as we lived in Honduras. Always adding that yellow food coloring (with a little added orange) to make me happy. Can we all take a moment to wonder in amazement and awe at this patient and kind woman?
Fast-forward ten-plus years and I cook for the family most nights. We are living in the US, and Kraft Mac & Cheese is readily available. At this point, while I still love it, I am also in love with the Fannie Farmer Cookbook. Her classic recipe is a baked mac and cheese. It is simple, it is massive, and it has a perfect golden crispy crust. I made this recipe about once a week. My mother never said a word about the heavy rotation of baked mac and cheese and neither did my siblings. Until one fateful Thanksgiving when my brother finally told me, he thought it was gross. Poor kid, he ate that baked mac and cheese for ages and all he wanted was some Velveeta Shells & Cheese. I am no Lila. However, I rallied and discovered that delights of thick, gooey, cheesy non-baked mac and cheese. I’ve been hunting for the perfect version for years, and I finally found it. A combination of great melting cheeses and good ol’ Velvetta get you the perfect consistency every time. It’s quicker and easier to make than the baked kind which is another huge point in its favor. Have I changed allegiances once again? Am I now a creamy, gooey mac and cheese person? Nope. I love them both. What’s your favorite version? Are you team baked or team stovetop?
A cheese-filled mac and cheese that will make even the pickiest tummies happy. You can put this together with just a few simple ingredients and in well under an hour, including boiling and baking!
Mac and Cheese
Ingredients
Instructions
Hi Y’all! It’s the second installment of our weekly roundup of food and wine-related media we think is worth your time. Each week we read, listen and watch the podcasts, books, essays, movies and more and let you know what we liked and why. Think we missed something or that we got it wrong? Want to fan-girl and boy with us? Let us know in the comments!
Ok, if you have only ever bought your hummus at the store, it is now time to up your hummus game. You can learn from no better person than Yottam Ottolenghi, author of many beautiful cookbooks including Plenty, Plenty More, and Jerusalem. This week he has three gorgeous and unique hummus recipes for you to try. Personally, I can’t wait to make the mushroom one!
Read it at the Guardian
Does wine intimidate you? Not sure what to drink or what to try? Do you think that wine snobs and waiters are silently judging you wine choices? Jon Bonne is here to relieve you of all of your wine woes. His book “The New Wine Rules.” is designed to simplify wine and bring everything back to basics. The book is so good, Tim is mad that he didn’t write it! Check out his thoughts on wine and how to approach it in this excellent interview on the Good Food Podcast. The conversation starts at min: 32:16 if you want to jump right to it.
American culture is formed and shaped but all the places we came from. This year San Antonio celebrates their 300 year birthday with a grand party and a look back at the Spanish influences that helped create the cultural heart of San Antonio.
Read all about it at NY Times.
Not Sure What to Drink this Summer? May We Suggest Gamay Noir?
I know, I know, everyone wants rosé wine when it’s 100-and-hell outside. I’m with you, I love rosé, but sometimes you want to mix things up and try something new. Patrick Comiskey of the LA Times makes a really great case for why Gamay Noir is your summertime red, plus a few suggestions on bottles to start with.
Read it at LA TImes
It’s summer so I know you think I mean fruit… but actually, lets jump in on some savory jams. It might seem intimidating, but the folks over at Tasting Table break it all down for you. It’s time to experiments with onion jams and pepper jellies. Are you ready?
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I first heard about the Camino De Santiago from a pair of friends that walked a part of it years ago. At the time, I barely registered what they had done and why. Mostly I was just in awe of their adventure. Then, more recently, I was reminded of it when another friend encouraged me to watch “The Way.” A beautiful movie about a Father walking in honor of his son. Somehow it ignited in me a wish to take a walk on this path. One day, hopefully, I will join in this ancient tradition. I don’t know why I want to do this, but I do.
This ancient pilgrimage, walked by thousands of devout Catholics since 812 AD is composed many different routes. Each route meanders through France and Spain. The pilgrimage ends at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia on the western coast of Spain. It is here where St. James’ remains are believed to be buried. If you keep your eyes peeled might see a scallop the symbol of the Camino de Santiago on an ancient building, cobblestone street or on a post with an arrow to guide the way.
I was really excited to discover that San Sebastian is one of the possible starting points for the Camino del Norte (the Northern Way). We saw many pligrims exploring the city with their backpacks and walking sticks. Is it weird to fangirl over people on a spiritual journey (don’t answer that… of course it is!) If you visit San Sebastian yourself, you may not notice them at the local pintxo bar, but you are sure to see a few at one of many gorgeous cathedrals scattered throughout La Parte Vieja (Old Town).
PS: Visit the cathedrals! They are gorgeous.
Let's talk coffee! Well, specifically I want to talk to you about South Florida coffee culture. In Miami Cuban coffee is King. When I was a teenager I had a summer job working for the school district's main office. The ladies who worked the cafeteria used to bring all...
First A Little History In the once ignored and dilapidated Wynwood Neighborhood is a thriving new-ish area full of art, food, coffee and lots and lots of pretty people. Dating back to 1917, it has had many incarnations. It was a working class neighborhood that housed...
July marks the three year anniversary of my Mother’s death. I’ve been missing her a lot these days. I have so many things I want to discuss with her. So many changes so many new things I want to bounce off of her. She was a comfortable woman to talk to, and I mean really easy. When I was a little girl, I remember standing in the checkout line at the grocery store (I think it was Lakeland Florida, so I would have been seven or eight at the time) while the cashier told my Mother her every heartache. My Mom just stood and listened, and when we left, I could tell the woman felt comforted and lighter. As we walked back to the car, I asked my Mom “Do you know that lady?” My Mom said, “No, people just tell me things.” It was true. Something about my Mom gave people space to tell their pain, heartaches and secret shames. It’s probably no surprise she was big on her comfort foods, too; she was a Texas girl born and bred after all! One of her go-to favorites was Navy Bean Soup.
My Mom was a great cook, but she did not enjoy it and pretty much stopped doing it when I was a teenager. She wanted homecooked meals but left to her own devices she would eat fried chicken and Wendy’s salad’s every day. When I could, I would make a week’s worth of food for her and leave it in her fridge. She loved simple foods. It made her crazy when I tried to fancy things up. She loved pimento cheese, summer squash and onions, navy bean soup, baked beans, fried chicken, saltine crackers with butter, cucumber and tomatoes, and field peas and rice. If I tried to add herbs to her squash and onions, she would fuss and fuss at me, and there was no sneaking a little extra something in the marinade for the grilled chicken. She also knew there was nothing better than ripe summer tomatoes fresh from the field. She might have loved simple food, but it was always high in flavor.
When the weather turned cold, she loved to have a big pot of chili or a bowl of navy bean soup. The one she made started with canned beans, and you can do that too if you want. I start with dry beans because I think the flavor is better AND its just so much cheaper to buy a bag of beans than it is a can of beans. My Mom’s navy bean soup did not include the parsley I add to mine, but otherwise, this is pretty much my Mama’s soup. I know its the high heat of summer right now, but for some reason, I had to make this soup recently… maybe because no matter how delicious cucumber and tomatoes are, they lack the comforting feeling that a bowl of soup gives ya? Who knows. All I know is I wanted this soup more than anything.